2020, Gewürztraminer, Ardèche, France

A textural, tuberous and tenacious oxidative gew for the strong of heart, mind and soul. Dedicated farmers Anders and Anne bring us into their world of charm and splendour through the looking glasses of Alsace and Ardèche. Their signature style is functionally food-obsessed, increasingly oxidative, ‘au natural’ (aka zero-zero) & requires, not an acquired taste, but possibly an acquired state of mind to truly enter their world. The award-winningly aromatic gew was harvested with noble rot (or Botrytis cinerea, a beneficial form of a grey fungus that intensifies sweetness and adds flavour complexity) abounding, direct pressed and left in barrels for 3.5 years without topping-up to concentrate intricacies on par with a killim rug. Gently vin jaune-esque, frozen white grape texture, grapefruit pith, potato skins caramelized with aged white cheddar, a spoonful of fresh, sweet milk, mountainous minerality & icing sugar. Pour alongside croquembouche, chocolate eclairs or baklava.