Gamay, Beaujolais, France

If Morgon is the birthplace of natural wine, Foillard one of its founding fathers. Along with Lapierre, Thévenet and Breton in the mid-80s to early-90s, this legendary “Gang of Four” pioneered many practices used in natural wine today: old vines, minimal sulphites and no synthetic pesticides, chaptalization or filtration. Compared to the famed, volcanic vineyards of Côte du Py, the sub-appellation of Corcelette shows the lighter, rounder and more elegant side of Beaujolais. This is his second-oldest cuvée from 80 year old vines, fermented whole cluster for 3-4 weeks with 6-9 months in oak barrels. Opulent and romantic, tart like a good pout, mineral-driven like the glint of large, shiny stones, wild cherries and fine florals at the fore of yawning depth and concentration. There’s a brisk energy to this wine, a decorated but no-nonsense strut with a clarity and confidence that can’t be understated. So beautiful!