Nebbiolo, Croatina & Vespolina, Alto Piemonte, Italy

For lovers of fancy Italian reds (most people?), meet this rare jewel, Italy's take on fine red Burgundy. Deep, savoury fruit, a nonna's secret spice blend and finessed, silky tannins with mega-long ageing potential for the patient - for the rest of us, decanting in any vessel will do just fine. Welcome to Alto Piemonte, a tiny wine region close to the Swiss border comprised of rolling hills that twist and turn, leaving only tiny southerly exposed surfaces suited for vines. As if the weather and terrain were not quite difficult enough, the primary grape in the region is the high-maintenance, late-ripening, low-yielding but ultimately operatic Nebbiolo. The Bramaterra comes from 60 years old vines on prized volcanic soils, aged two years in botti (6000 litre traditional barrel) for added depth and complexity. A star bottle ready to shine.