Chardonnay, Burgundy, France 

Really putting the SAINT in Saint Aubin, this white burg has a glowing halo the radius of Saturn’s Rings. Recently, barrel-maker turned expert winemaker, Dominique Derain has retired and sold his property to his once assistant Julien Altaber – one of the winemakers of Sextant, another fave natty Burg producer! The vineyards have been certified biodynamic since 1989, and are located in Mercurey, just south of the so-called hidden gem of Burgundy – Saint Aubin. Rocky limestone soils thrust ‘En Remilly’ into a swarm of mineral hyper-fixation, guiding the grapes like a hand to a puppet. 100% chardonnay from the southern end of the village, crossing the boundary into Chassagne-Montrachet, where there is also a designated premier cru vineyard with the exact same exposure and soil, talk about SpeCiAl. From 35-year-old vines, the wine is left on lees for 12 months bringing about an elegant texture and sealed in character. Deep lemon, vanilla flowers, salt shaker, bruised pear, baked peach, snow peas, melting butter & chalky bitterness. There is obviously no bad time to drink this, but the patient will be rewarded. Will continue to gain complexity for 10+ years.